Why don't aisles accelerate

Save fuel: the 14 best tricks for economical driving

Anyone who uses the fluctuations in fuel prices for their own benefit can refuel cheaply. But did you know that your personal driving habits, technical extras or roof boxes drive up fuel consumption exorbitantly?

If you step on the accelerator cleverly, you can save up to 30 percent fuel and reduce CO2 emissions. We'll show you how you have to refuel less with an intelligent, forward-looking driving style and which gas-guzzling optional equipment you prefer to do without more often.

With these 7 saving tips you can optimize your driving style

1. Gear shift in city traffic

The topmost rule: Shift up as quickly as possible and “swim” in traffic.

How to switch in a fuel-saving manner:
2nd gear: after a car-length drive
3rd gear: from 30 km / h
4th gear: from 40 km / h
5th gear: from 50 to 60 km / h

When starting off and accelerating, it is worthwhile to accelerate well, but do not depress the accelerator more than approx. 75 percent. Accelerating briefly and quickly is more efficient and is easier on the petrol or diesel tank.

2. Avoid speed orgies: when to shift up or down?

At about 2000 revolutions per minute (Rpm) experts recommend shifting into the next higher gear.

You should downshift at 1000 to 1500 rpm. When the engine practically starts to jerk (usually around 1000 rpm) or stops accelerating when accelerating.

Those who drive at low revs (not at low revs!) Save up to 25 percent fuel and protects the engine.

3. Drive with foresight & brake intelligently

If you drive more steadily, you brake less: Avoid unnecessary acceleration in order to move forward supposedly quickly. In city traffic we are talking about a one to three minute lead. Is it really worth it? #SparDirDas!

Because after every acceleration sprint you have to brake unnecessarily at the next traffic light, the stop sign or in stop-and-go traffic, which costs you precious gasoline or diesel fuel.

Use the momentum of the vehicle & take your foot off the accelerator early

If you want to roll out cleverly, use the overrun cut-off and / or the engine brake before you step on the brake and leave the gear in gear. When coasting in gear, the automatic overrun cut-off interrupts the fuel supply and the motor brakes "by itself". It's more economical and you get slow relatively quickly.

So it is better to approach the next traffic light, barrier or short-term traffic jams with the engine brake - without hindering other road users, of course. ;-)

4. When should I avoid idling & switch off the engine?

When the clutch is disengaged in idle, the engine continues to run. Three minutes of idling use as much as driving a kilometer at 50 km / h.

That is why it is worthwhile in a traffic jam, at the railway barrier or at the traffic light if the vehicle is parked for more than 20 seconds to turn off the engine. Cars with modern start-stop systems switch off automatically when they are idle for a long time.

5. Depress the clutch less

This goes hand in hand with savings tip number four: when the clutch is depressed, fuel is injected. Sometimes you press the clutch supposedly with foresight, because you think: "Oh, I'll have to brake and downshift soon." And then it doesn't even come to that. It's better to drive more calmly, use the lowest engine speed and only clutch and shift gear when the situation really requires it.

6. Save fuel on the motorway with 100 km / h to 130 km / h

The fuel consumption increases from a speed of 120 km / h to 130 km / h disproportionately at. Factors such as engine performance, weather conditions, but above all air resistance, have an enormous influence on fuel consumption.

The ADAC has found out that a mid-range car at 160 km / h two thirds more fuel consumed than at 100 km / h (over a distance of 100 kilometers).

Of course, if you cover very long distances, this has a positive effect on the time you save. For short journeys on the motorway, on the other hand, it's not worth pressing the tube just to be there a few minutes earlier.

7. Avoid peak times and holiday traffic

A mundane piece of advice, but still the best: Many are annoyed by the slow vacation traffic or the morning rush hour when everyone is rushing to work. You could write novels about the cursing silhouettes and silent hateful comments in the cars. ;-)

Our tip: Just drive in the morning 5 to 15 minutes earlier. You'll be amazed how empty the streets are.

And yes: 15 minutes are very feasible if, for example, you “snooz” twice less. ;-) It's all a question of attitude and morning organization.

And with a little planning, you can easily avoid holiday traffic. Either drive off at night or move the start of your vacation - if possible - a day forward.

Check vehicle condition & unnecessary weight

Roof boxes, rear racks and stuff in the trunk

The more weight, the more consumption - this is especially true for the popular roof boxes or roof racks, because they interfere with aerodynamics. According to ADAC, you consume around 130 km / h two liters more fuel per 100 kilometers.

Two bikes on the roof hit one at a speed of 130 km / h Additional consumption of 41.6 percent to book. With rear carriers it is only - but still - 18.2 percent more fuel.

Another real “fuel killer” is the unnecessary ballast that we like to take for a walk with us: two empty beer crates, mom's freshly washed laundry, a collection of one-way bottles, the camping table from vacation. Additional weight eats up fuel: 100 kilograms more weight increases fuel consumption to 0.7 liters per 100 kilometers. So you better clean up your car more often. ;-)

Incorrect tire pressure, dirty air filters & worn spark plugs

Resistance costs money. Rolling resistance in particular: if your tire pressure is only 0.5 bar below the standard value (see operating instructions or fuel filler flap), your rolling resistance increases by ten percent. That leads to one Five percent more fuel consumption. Not much, but small livestock also make crap. And by the way, this faux pas accelerates wear and tear and extends your braking distance.

The most fuel-efficient tire pressure is up to 0.5 bar above the standard value. You can find out about the latter from your car's control panel.

Also look out for so-called low-friction tires the next time you buy tires. According to the Ministry of the Environment, you save again up to five percent fuel.

Incidentally, winter tires mean an additional consumption of 0.5 liters per 100 kilometers, which you should of course be happy to accept in the interests of safety.

Dirty air filters and worn spark plugs also cost fuel. Therefore, you should have them checked regularly during the major inspections.

Special equipment: Only switch on these 4 extras when required

Air conditioning swallows 2 liters per 100 kilometers

The ADAC determined in a test that an ordinary middle class car about 20 percent more fuel consumed when the air conditioner is running. This is only half the story, however, because the air conditioning consumption depends on the speed - consumption outside the city “only” adds up to six percent.

In addition, the desired temperature, the technology of the air conditioning (fully automatic or manual) and of course the size of the car all influence consumption.

Power guzzlers: heated seats, heated front and rear windows

Electrical components such as lighting or integrated windscreen heating also waste a lot of fuel if you are not careful. Because the engine drives the alternator and thus generates the electricity required. You should only switch on the winter feel-good features when you really need them.

Rule of thumb: How much additional consumption due to electrical extras?

The additional consumption is around 0.1 liters per 100 kilometers per 100 watts.

In city traffic you can even get up to 0.3 liters per 100 watts, because the additional consumption is based on the average speed.

Additional electrical functions: "Watts left?"

Ventilation: 170 to 250 watts
Low beam: between 30 watts (halogen) & 110 watts (xenon)
Fog lights: 100 watts
High beam: 120 watts
LED daytime running lights: 8 watts
Rear window heating: up to 200 watts
Front window heating: 500 watts
Outside mirror heating: up to 40 watts
Steering wheel heating: 50 watts
Seat heating (per seat): 120 watts
Parking heater: around 50 watts
Air conditioning: about 50 watts

The information is of course only approximate. Nevertheless, you can get to 500 to 600 (avoidable) watts per trip so quickly.

And finally the worst driving style: that Let the car warm up in winter. It's forbidden (you even get a fine), harms the engine, the environment, your wallet and it doesn't even help - the engine doesn't even come close to operating temperature, as many think.

If you want to free your windows from ice in winter without annoying ice scraping, check out our 6 lifehacks for deicing windows!

We wish you a good and fuel-saving journey at all times!

Source of picture: © Bettina Wehmeyer - stock.adobe.com