What are indestructible shoes made of?
Life and death of the NNN Rottefella ski boots. Repair of ski boots DIY repair of ski boots
What does shoe sole repair have to do with construction? The most immediate thing is that you can't build a lot barefoot. Work shoes can therefore safely be called a tool that sometimes needs to be repaired. Worn shoes are often tossed in the trash can, although they can still serve as work shoes. After all, appearance is not so important to her, the main thing is that she feels comfortable and warm.
After a few seasons of intensive use, the soles of the winter boots were slightly washed out and walking became a bit uncomfortable for a long time. For some reason, tossing a fairly strong pair of leather shoes didn't raise your hand. When he put aside his last doubts, he boldly tore the cardboard insoles from his shoes, especially since they were only glued around the perimeter.
In most modern shoes, the insoles are made up of vertical cells made from thin castings that are used for cushioning when walking. Over time, the strain causes the cell walls to collapse and the heel with the toe to fail, causing discomfort during movement.
There are three ways out of this situation:
- Thank the old shoes for their faithful service and buy a new pair.
- Take the shoes to a repair shop to have the soles completely replaced.
- Repair the soles yourself with straight hands and a simple tool.
This isn't the first time I've chosen the third option. One hour of work and in the hands of practically new shoes, tailored to individual characteristics and needs. To restore the soles, you will need a simple tool (knife and scissors) and old slippers. I don't know what their real names are, but I think everyone has them - summer ones made of porous material or rubber or foamed polyurethane.
I've tried using different materials, but slates get the best effect - after all, they're only designed to take the stress off your heels during long walks. Microporous rubber is hard, but tourist mats are too soft and crumple quickly.
With a knife, I cut cubes (sometimes straight parallelepipeds) out of old slippers that are slightly larger than the size of the cells and simply insert them into the cells while rubbing them. Their tops form the inner surface of the sole, which can be shaped (like an orthopedic insole) taking into account individual preferences.
On the front of the sole, the manufacturer of these shoes has depicted the sea in the form of wavy lines - well, fine, but you cannot insert the cubes. So I just cut a flat sheet off the old sneaker and cut out a portion of it to remove the flexing of the insole under the finger joints. I glued this panel to the insole with ordinary double-sided tape - it holds the layer perfectly, and hardly anyone is going to tear it off.
Safety, ride quality depends on the equipment. Active use, difficult tricks lead to harm. Repairing ski boots is an expensive process. You can fix some problems yourself.
Losing inventory at the beginning or in the middle of the season is inconvenient. Rivets and fasteners can break off, and the sole can also peel off. The question is, how can you repair your ski boots yourself? Experienced skiers know how to fix minor problems. Beginners should familiarize themselves with the basic tips, tricks, nuances.
Lightning strikes often crash. Difficulties arise from the special design of shoes, stretch materials, plastic parts. It is best to contact a professional. Conventional workshops rarely take on such work. In some cases, you can do the repair of a zipper on a ski boot with your own hands.
Sewing the torn off part is an easy option. You need a strong thread, not a sharp needle, scissors. A plastic spring is sewn to the fabric base. It is difficult to fasten at first as the dog gets tight with a zipper. This method will help until the thread wears out. The measure is temporary. It is better to find a professional and replace the whole zipper.
Cracks in the plastic inner shoe are common. Appear from shock, wear and tear, frost, fall. In most cases a complete replacement of the element is required. You can fix it yourself if the cracks are small.
You need to make stainless steel patches. The holes roll gently so that the screw goes in firmly with ease. You shouldn't put a big fortress. The boot has a curved shape. In order to avoid shifting, two approx. 2 cm thick steel strips are inserted, which are suitable for the outer part.
Danger! Repairing individual parts can weaken the design and reduce reliability and safety. Defective parts must be replaced.
The boot bursts with a folded tongue - simply pull the edges together with a thick thread, apply a piece of durable fabric or leather. Glue must be used that remains flexible after drying.
With prolonged use, the threads are erased, the seams are torn, they deviate. Often the wrinkles collapse. You can fix it yourself. It will take a thick thread, a needle, a pair of scissors. The material of the ski equipment is tight. It is better to press the needle (thimble) with a protector. Pull the edges out completely. By removing the torn old threads you can use the available holes. The end of the thread is well attached. Wait until the next abrasion.
Wear, sharp twitching, careless use will damage the shutter. If the hook and loop fasteners are made of fabric, you can repair them yourself. It will take a piece of dense fabric, thick, strong thread, scissors. The broken part is connected by a thread. Above and below it is fixed, sewn with a fabric. A broken ring can be replaced with wire. Replace with the original part as soon as possible.
When the sole comes off
Losing the sole of a shoe is a mishap that is difficult to fix. It is impossible to restore the original appearance with your own hands. Temporary measure - glue, fix with screws. Hats (preferably flat) should be on the inside of the boot. The nose is screwed separately - it has a different position, so a separate screw is required.
What is needed for the repair
Equipment and materials depend on the type of breakdown. For seams, tears of fabric, a thick thread, a needle, a dense fabric, or leather are required. Needles are best taken with a blunt end - less risk of getting stuck in a finger. Sometimes glue is used - after hardening, the composition should remain elastic, otherwise cracks will appear again.
For plastic elements - boots, internal and external parts, fasteners - stainless steel plates, flat head screws, screwdrivers are required. Thin plastic is slowly and gently pierced with a hot needle. Thickened areas are drilled.
Order of actions
Wash and wipe your shoes dry before repairing them. Disassemble shoes, remove damaged element. Plastic parts are disinfected before treatment (alcohol, acetone).
Danger! The best algorithm for action in case of failure is a request to a professional master, a complete replacement of defective elements.
Only stainless steel is used for stains, to reinforce the substrate, to grout cracks (the effect of snow, ice rust occurs). When the tissue is torn, protruding threads are removed and the roughness is eliminated.
An experienced skier can immediately determine the degree of the breakdown and the possibility of repair. Most have their inventory repairing secrets. Correcting the do-it-yourself situation requires skill, certain skills and special equipment.
You can reduce wear and tear on ski boots with proper care. Do not use cleaning agents that contain solvents. Shoes must be dried after every ride. The fasteners should be checked, do not pull, but fasten smoothly. Pay attention to your foot position. It should be comfortable and the girth should be tight. In two or three years, a situation may arise where the foot is not brought into the working position. This can indicate an expired service life.
The devices for summer storage should be cleaned and well ventilated in locations without direct sunlight. Shoes are washed, removable parts lengthen the fabric. Keep away from heating devices. Do not use synthetic aggressive compounds for washing - soap solution, environmentally friendly products.
Important! Caring for ski boots extends their lifespan, but does not protect against cracks, chips and tears. Inventory is selected for the driving style. Anatomical features, comfort are taken into account. With minimal changes, parts are checked for changes.
Proper maintenance, a professional handyman, and parts replacement are keys to safety. Failures reduce the quality of the shoes and weaken the connecting elements. You can fix it yourself, but only if there is no other option.
We dismantle the ski boot
Why? Understanding how it's built, what it's made of, and most importantly, how shoes can be personalized. Let's look at a classic boat as an example.
Let's say this (photo 1). Models can be very different. If you have a different quality plastic, you have the necessary and often useless bells and whistles. For example, the walking-skating mode, the “toggle switch” for adjusting the stiffness and other things which, by the way, do not improve the work of the shoe, but increase its appearance and costs. But now it's not about that.
We continue disassembling. The reverse process, as everyone knows, is sometimes a daunting task. So let me take it apart and you see
Loosen the clips completely, loosen the strap (Velcro fastener). We remove the inside (inner shoe; inner shoe).
One of the extraction options is shown here. We make a gentle movement towards us with the left hand, with the right hand. We make sure that the heel is not damaged from the inside and that it clings to something. And usually there is something to hold on to.
The inside was removed intact. It can be with or without lacing; subject to deep drawing and not; with a furry edge and quite unpretentious in my opinion. One way or another, the job of the interior is to fill in the space between the leg and the plastic shell. Not always, but you can find the insole in it (pic 5). It is this insole that is sometimes changed to an individual.
The boot set can contain thin (up to 1mm) insoles that are cut along the perimeter of a standard insole. They suggest regulating the completeness of the shoe and constructing a cake from the insoles. In my opinion, a good option to achieve the necessary fixation of the foot. It is true that this only applies within reasonable limits and by no means in all cases. If you need to add completeness, the layers are removed down to the standard sockliner. And ride without her at all.
On a photo 6 - a casserole inside with a "smell" (emphasis on the second syllable) instead of a tongue. There are back guts with a tongue. These internals do not sit on the foot themselves. They should be "baked" by heating them to the required temperature.
There are still jellies. Here the thought is simple. A liquid foam composition is poured inside through special pipes, similar to construction (like Macroflex). After the polymerization, an inner shoe is obtained that repeats the contours of the ankle down to the finer points.
All of these options are good in their own way. But they both have advantages and disadvantages. Unfortunately there is no panacea. That's not what it is about. The main thing is that the inside with the insole as a design element gives the shoe a certain personality. In addition, the inner shoe can be replaced with an abnormal one. Sometimes that makes sense. However, if the leg as a whole or in its "protruding" places tries to push the boundaries of the plastic shell, it is better not to expect miracles from within.
Warmth and comfort - the inside is soft and "plump". Correct (distortion-free) transfer of movement to the ski - the inside is thin (sometimes like a rag) or hard (like filler). The comfort and performance characteristics of boots have been in conflict with one another for many years. Unfortunately, this often happens when skiing.
Go on. Consider the plastic shell of the shoe, or plastic for short.
In the classic version of the layout, the plastic shell consists of two parts. The upper part is usually referred to as the "shaft" and the lower part is called the "galosh". If you make bots to order, the shoe can be stacked. In some models, plastic has a constructive wisdom that does not change the essence.
The top and bottom of the shoe are connected by a pair of hinges (arrow in Photo 9). The swivel joint can be equipped with an eccentric that regulates the lateral inclination of the shaft (tilting). Photo 10.
The knot looks like this.
Or so. There are other options. There are bots with no setting options for canting at all. For example entry-level models. Oddly enough, some sports bots also lack the incline adjustment node. These tasks are particularly relevant in sport, but are solved using other methods. Defining tilting or wheel alignment is a separate topic. We'll talk about that later.
There are various setting options for tilting the shaft forward.
Such wedges, which are attached between the galoshes and the bootleg, are part of it (Photo 15). If the shoe model provides for such an adjustment, wedges are included in the package.
The kit can also contain other elements that act on the principle of a wedge.
In picture 16 we can see a wedge that you can use to increase the coverage of the calf in the upper part of the shaft. Usually he's standing still. To remove it or to leave it, you decide for yourself. The item is called the rear spoiler. The front is also available as an option, but it is very rarely used. Bots are usually not equipped with it.
In the photo 17 heel wedge (axial bearing). If desired, the thrust bearing is placed under the inside to increase the degree of fixation of the heel. Both wedges can be used to fine-tune the boot-ski system relevant to high-speed disciplines. You also have the option to throw the skier off balance. Attaching wedges is therefore careful.
Let's look at the plastic.
In the depth (photo 18) we see another insole. I call it the main or "base". And not by chance. In my opinion, the base should be placed firmly, stable and free of play in a plastic shell. Why? More on that later.
With the arrow (left) I indicated a strange throwing edge that often bites into the corresponding bones of the foot from the outside. The purpose of this element is not clear to me. It's not difficult to remove. Which I usually do right away. I want to give such advice. Before contacting the bootfitter, carefully inspect your bot's plastic for the quality of the casting, and look out for the connecting screws and rivets. You may need more space than necessary. Check if the insoles are reversed. Unfortunately, this is happening for unknown reasons. And even in new boots.
The dashed line is clearly visible in Photo 19. If you cut plastic galoshes along it, the boot will soften over time. If the spacer is to be readjusted after "cutting" into the cut that has been made (indicated by the arrow), the boot can then be partially restored to its original rigidity. If the spacer is movable (with the ability to move firmly along the cut), the stiffness of the bot can be adjusted. I am in no way calling for such an approach. This is just an illustration on the subject of "ABOUT ADDITIONS". In the same photo, you can see mortgages directly below. Here the heel of the inner member has a habit of clinging to the process of disassembling the boot. These mortgages are the mutual part of the right screws,
which are visible in this picture.Such a system blocks the operation of the hinges, forcing only the plastic shell to work for the deflection. If it were necessary to increase the stiffness index of this particular bot, I would add an additional pair of hinges here. (Photo below).
With this construction, of course, the quality of the plastic is the main condition for the successful operation of the system. For this reason, the rigidity of shoes is adjusted in this way only in the upper models including the sports shoes.
Now back to the base (main insole). Each shoe has its own base. Even if it is not there, it will not be pulled out of the case. It is better if the base can be removed and worked with.
Approximately as shown in Photo 22, 23. The point is that the leg can be adjusted to the required level either by raising the base or, conversely, by sawing off. Such "customization" offers an additional opportunity not just to play with the abundance of boots. It is clear that the one-piece construction of the base made of rigid foam (photo 24, 25),
at least for sawing is preferred. For freeride and jumping disciplines, the base consists of relatively soft foam or with a soft print. Photo 26 shows a soft pad. In any case, I want to feel exactly the BASIS under the foot and not an element that has a certain mobility in space. Otherwise, what is the point of stabilizing a single insole, for example? Of course, if the latter is necessary. I have to say that the custom insole is a very accurate product. Therefore, its location on the base without deformations and distortions (Photo 27) has some meaning.
There is nothing more interesting in the plastic shell. We do an "external examination" of the patient.
We may be interested in boat information. The stiffness index is usually given on plastic. This index is pure convention and speaks more of the declared level of the bot than of its real rigidity. In practice, boots with an index, but different models from manufacturers, will not appear equally tough when hanging by the tongues.
There is more information on the bot's block. Usually on the heel (Photo 28).
275 mm - the length of the shoe block. This value is important when installing the brackets. Sometimes it is mistaken for the length of the foot, which should not be done. Confusion occurs and the crepes are set incorrectly. In order to avoid misunderstandings, it is better to come to the installation with certain shoes.
23 / 23.5 - the size of the bot. This is the length of the foot in centimeters. Galosha is poured in 1 cm (size) increments. The halves of the amateur boots are selected from the filler material of the inner boot. With sportbots, there are no halves at all, which often creates additional difficulties in choosing and then refining them. The bootleg can be molded for multiple sizes at the same time.
Clips are important elements of the boot. You, along with the combs, are responsible for streamlining the bot. They are viewed from the bottom up. That means the top pair is the fourth (in our version). How many should there be? Two, three, four or five? The main thing is not one. If the legs are not problematic, no matter how much. In the event of problems, bots with four or five clips are preferable. In the case of their later refinement.
Our boot has all metal clips, "micro-adjustable". The second clip can place as much as possible in three positions. It's good. There are ways to rearrange the third and fourth combs. Good as well. On simpler models, a top comb with a quick rearrange function is sometimes installed.
Photo 29 shows just a few options for clips. Arrows that I pointed to "unwanted". They don't have a micro-fit function, which is bad. And plastic isn't the best material to use to make clips. Metal will take longer. If the clip fails, it can be replaced, even if it is similar. Like a comb. It is enough to address this question in the right place. If, as usual, the error occurred at the wrong time, you can use a high-quality adhesive tape as a "replacement". It's dreary, of course, to wind it up for every trip, but ... as an option.
If we continue on the topic of repair, it is worth touching on other elements of the boots.
This Velcro fastener is called a "strep", sometimes also a "booster". Although Booster is structurally different from Strep.
The photo below shows what exactly. By the way, the booster is set as the opposite. It is more convenient for the owner to get to the "crocodile".
The edges of the front spoiler are clearly visible in the photos. It was discussed above.
Meanwhile, the functions of Booster and Strep are similar. An element can be replaced even if it is not original. If necessary, the strep can be increased.
Photo 34 shows in which cases or during repairs the Velcro fastener is replaced. Unfortunately it is not durable.
I don't even know what to call this part of the structure (Photo 35, 36). Either "outsole" or "heel pad". This means that when worn, it must be replaced in the same way as civilian shoes. But that's not the case. In the form of spare parts, these things are not included in the scope of delivery. Separately for maintenance are not included. It is impossible to include an analog because the part is particularly original. Why? Think for yourself. Especially for lovers, it is worthwhile to hike in bots on bare asphalt, to conquer ledges.
The sole of the shoe (block) can't be frills. A "solid" block is used on some top and all sport models. For all its simplicity, it is it that gives you complete control of the skis, as they cannot be deformed under maximum load. And not just like that.
The block could look like this. The "holes" required for the installation of additional lifting plates (lifter) are clearly visible in the photo.
Or so. Holes are marked here for screws that will actually be used to secure the panels.
In contrast to the usual hollow block (Photo 41), the one-piece block with lifters enables fine-tuning of the sports shoe descent.
After installing the lifting plates, the weld seams are calibrated with a milling cutter. As shown in Photo 42. We'll cover the subject of wheel alignment adjustment in more detail in the next article. Now it is important to understand what it is all about when it comes to shoes for milling. And what is actually being milled there.
That's probably all. Attach the shoe in reverse order. Hope it turned out to be interesting, maybe even informative.
Don't scold too much for the quality of the photo material. I am a novice photographer. Actually like a writer.
I switched to the mounts and boots of the NNN system not long ago and have only been riding them for the second season. Postponed due to weak Salomon SNS mounts which, if broken, can sooner or later lead to the failure of expensive cross-country ski trails. He also switched from an integrated NIS platform for NNN mounts with the possibility of manual adjustment and without the need for additional and extremely undesirable holes in due to the limited selection of shoes for SNS and his own laziness of presence on many modern top cross-country ski trails to drill the ski. However, NNN appears to have another ambush. Not in clasps, but already in boots - an extremely weak sole. Which in a few trips with the Dmitriev group can unexpectedly even burst at the top. :-(
Customer No. 1 - Rossignol X3. I bought in the "Trial-Sport" for almost 8 tr He died after only six days of traveling with the group. Fortunately, there was no deviation from the route, and the shoes lasted another 45 km thanks to a spontaneous dress with pavement.
Client # 2 - Fisher XC Control. I bought from Juventa to replace the aforementioned Rossignol for 6 gobs. There was nothing cheaper than acceptable quality and convenience. I've served less than a season or 12 trips from the State Duma (including the hundred last year), last centenary run on Monday.
Customer number 3 - affordable Chinese Nordway Tromse from Sportmaster - to a brand new one? :-)
It can be seen that the crack is forming in the same dangerous section - the junction of the toe with the main sole. They don't even try to fix Fisher on a shoe repair: the shoemakers just heal the cracked rubber soles, and then the plastic is hard. Throw away a pity (a crack is just beginning to form). Maybe you can somehow save up in some advanced workshop?
For comparison: the old “Salomon” from 2011, which passed fire and water, two hundred and fifty State Duma hikes on the gully and numerous walks on urban asphalt from home to train stations and back.
What did they do with them - put a stain in the place of the flexion of the foot, cut off the plastic fastener, all the seams were sewn. The sole and the axles have sharply sharpened on the asphalt, but the sole itself is simply not to be killed. :-) It is completely monolithic, without a toe joint with a high concentration of stress as with NNN and without strong changes in thickness.
Or even the older Spine Advance shoes from 2008 that have been in continuous use for 4 seasons and still serve at the opening / closing time of the season. Also with an indestructible sole.
So think better to go back to the immortal SNS boots but with weak closures, or buy an NNN Chinese from Sportmaster every year, as in the well-known ad, "If You Can't See the Difference Why Pay More." ? "
Perhaps experienced skiers know how to deal with this NNN disease? :-) That means, take cheap shoes, but with a more reliable sole. I would love if someone shares who serves NNN regularly for several seasons of intense skiing.
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